Friday 31 October 2008
Oops
Bit of a malfunction there. The impressionistic piece below was meant to be a selection from some pictures I took at Parca Duarte, my favorite place in SD so far. It has a modern art gallery, the National Theatre and two museums (Natural History and Anthropological) a cinema, a bar, a restaurant and probably other stuff I haven't found yet. I'll post some more later and maybe a proper update too.
Monday 13 October 2008
Week 3
Weekend 3=Rain Rain Rain, and then some Lightning for good measure. This should be evident in soem of the pictures from my previous post. On Saturday I went for an extended stroll downtown until I hit the sea, which is ruined by the busy dual carriageway running alongside it. On the return leg I gto caught in the storm and sought shelter under the eaves of a building with a flower stall attached. This turned out to be one of two branches in Santo Domingo of an international interfaith NGO called the United Peace Federation. It was great to see evidence of Civil Society activity in the capital, even if the volunteers there were ex-pats from elsewhere (Japan and Peru). We swapped details and, the coase being clear, I continued on my sodden way. The simple charity which these people showed to a stranger was heartening. On the Sunday we (myself and Ciaria again) made an ill advised and ultimately abortive attempt to visit 'tres ochos' (three eyes), a set of underground caves and pools on the edge of town, we ended up at Santo Domingo Aquarium, which is quite small, but even on a day this rainy seemed popular with locals. The views across the Carribbean were fantastic and some of the fish were very cool indeed. The highlights were turtle pools by the entrance, unguarded and within touching distance of the visitors. A stroll into La Zona Coloinal, and dinner and beer to the strains of a Brass band signalld the close of a distinctly more peaceful weekend than the one preceding.
Liewise last week I seemed to settle into a more normalised working life, with the ebnefit of a weekend's rest with no travel behind me. I Joined the Gym, which is extremely hot. It's very good to get any form of exercise after a lay off that stretches back too far. This venture may even support me to save money, as I paid a substantial subscription up front for the benefit of using the facilities until I leave. There was an event at Instraw to promote the launch of a research report on the effects of Hurricane Noel on Women on Hispaniola and efforts to support them . Unfortunately it was conducted entirely in Spanish, so there was little I could do either as a member of staff or a bystander. The experience strenthgened my resolve to learn so I shook my lethargy, made some inquiries and booked my first lesson for this week. Also one evening I made my way with my housemate Ciaria to the Cinema Cafe, which is located behind the National Theatre in a big park between my house and Instraw. Partially outside, lit by moonlight, walls adorned with discrete black and white photos of film icons, palm trees forming a perimeter, spot lights and an actual VW Beetle made this place my favourite bar so far, even if it was very quiet when we visited. Work wise the lack of a really juicy task to take on really began to bug me as, presented with more banal administration, my mind wanders far to easily to anythign other than work (like this for example. This week I will consciously create something worthwhile to do in order to relieve my inertia. I have some great people and contacts at my disposal here, and the weight of the UN name, so I would hope to make some progress. The right idea is all that's needed.
This weekend just passed I was presented with two options. A Five AM rise and a trip by bus to the beach, or a Seven AM rise and an air conditioned car journey to the hills. Comfort and curiousity both led me to the latter option. So after an early rise I embarked with 5 others (3 interns, an Instraw employee and our Domincan partner in crime, Santo Domingo born and bred) on a two and a half hour drive to Constanza. For once on this trip a four wheel drive SUV was absolutely essential*. Costanza sits in a volcanic valley 500 feet above sea level so the trip is all undertaken at practically a 45 degree angle, at a crawling pace, under intense sunlight. Then once in this flat haven we went up again, into the hills around the town, ending up approximately 1000 feet above sea level, hiring a cabin that was the spitting image of the Little House on the Prairie! The atmosphere there is so entirely detached from the urban chaos of Santo Domingo that one could easily forget that the two are part of the same small country. The landscape is sweeping, with peaks clearing cloud level and lush vegetation more akin to what once might find in Austria or Switzerland than the stereotypical expectation of a Carribbean island. The air is clearer and cooler, there is no noise and the views are breathtaking. We ate, drank, played games, walked (some of us at least, myself included) and generally enjoyed ourselves without much of great import occuring. It was a peaceful and pleasant weekend in a fantastic location that shows a very different side to the country. One particular highlight is the small chapel that formed part of our chalet complex, out on its own little peninsula of hill, with a metal sculpture of what appears to be a particularly evil angel, guarding it. Apparently however this is intended to represent Saint Michael, who looks after the interests of soldiers. Whichever, I'm a big fan. Aside from a particularly torturous return drive down hill through incredibly dense fog that had hearts beating apace, all was well. I was in bed back at Dona Irena's before midnight and into work on time. And today I went to the Ambassador's residence for a lunch with some Dominican Chevening Scholars who have studied in the UK. It was really nice. The people were interesting, and able to give some great commentary on Dominican Politics (Leonel Fernandez, or just 'leonel' has just been elected for a second 4 year term, but word is all the bargins he struck to get power have caught up with him and the whole administration is stuffed with token appointments who do nothing but weigh down the state wage bill. Also DR is very close to missing payments on its electricity bill, which will harm its position financially, really hurting confidence in the country investment wise), the food was good and the wine was nothing short of sublime. Which brings things nicely up to date. Hasta Luego!
*We had 6 people in a luxurious, spacious truck. Way up in the hills I saw one pick up with 18 people sat inside, outside and on the vehicle!
#This is a slight lie. Some of the music chocies were just as torturous. The Roots were dismissed as 'just rap' after half a track whereas 'Odelay' by Beck (good album no question) which is pretty much a Hip Hop pastiche, got some big love. Plus I seemed to be the only one present who wasn't a massive Jamiroquai fan. These may seem like trivial concerns, hence their relegation to footnote status, but I take music far too seriously not to have been slightly offended:) Our host did also play some lovely Iranian music that soothed my soul somewhat.
Liewise last week I seemed to settle into a more normalised working life, with the ebnefit of a weekend's rest with no travel behind me. I Joined the Gym, which is extremely hot. It's very good to get any form of exercise after a lay off that stretches back too far. This venture may even support me to save money, as I paid a substantial subscription up front for the benefit of using the facilities until I leave. There was an event at Instraw to promote the launch of a research report on the effects of Hurricane Noel on Women on Hispaniola and efforts to support them . Unfortunately it was conducted entirely in Spanish, so there was little I could do either as a member of staff or a bystander. The experience strenthgened my resolve to learn so I shook my lethargy, made some inquiries and booked my first lesson for this week. Also one evening I made my way with my housemate Ciaria to the Cinema Cafe, which is located behind the National Theatre in a big park between my house and Instraw. Partially outside, lit by moonlight, walls adorned with discrete black and white photos of film icons, palm trees forming a perimeter, spot lights and an actual VW Beetle made this place my favourite bar so far, even if it was very quiet when we visited. Work wise the lack of a really juicy task to take on really began to bug me as, presented with more banal administration, my mind wanders far to easily to anythign other than work (like this for example. This week I will consciously create something worthwhile to do in order to relieve my inertia. I have some great people and contacts at my disposal here, and the weight of the UN name, so I would hope to make some progress. The right idea is all that's needed.
This weekend just passed I was presented with two options. A Five AM rise and a trip by bus to the beach, or a Seven AM rise and an air conditioned car journey to the hills. Comfort and curiousity both led me to the latter option. So after an early rise I embarked with 5 others (3 interns, an Instraw employee and our Domincan partner in crime, Santo Domingo born and bred) on a two and a half hour drive to Constanza. For once on this trip a four wheel drive SUV was absolutely essential*. Costanza sits in a volcanic valley 500 feet above sea level so the trip is all undertaken at practically a 45 degree angle, at a crawling pace, under intense sunlight. Then once in this flat haven we went up again, into the hills around the town, ending up approximately 1000 feet above sea level, hiring a cabin that was the spitting image of the Little House on the Prairie! The atmosphere there is so entirely detached from the urban chaos of Santo Domingo that one could easily forget that the two are part of the same small country. The landscape is sweeping, with peaks clearing cloud level and lush vegetation more akin to what once might find in Austria or Switzerland than the stereotypical expectation of a Carribbean island. The air is clearer and cooler, there is no noise and the views are breathtaking. We ate, drank, played games, walked (some of us at least, myself included) and generally enjoyed ourselves without much of great import occuring. It was a peaceful and pleasant weekend in a fantastic location that shows a very different side to the country. One particular highlight is the small chapel that formed part of our chalet complex, out on its own little peninsula of hill, with a metal sculpture of what appears to be a particularly evil angel, guarding it. Apparently however this is intended to represent Saint Michael, who looks after the interests of soldiers. Whichever, I'm a big fan. Aside from a particularly torturous return drive down hill through incredibly dense fog that had hearts beating apace, all was well. I was in bed back at Dona Irena's before midnight and into work on time. And today I went to the Ambassador's residence for a lunch with some Dominican Chevening Scholars who have studied in the UK. It was really nice. The people were interesting, and able to give some great commentary on Dominican Politics (Leonel Fernandez, or just 'leonel' has just been elected for a second 4 year term, but word is all the bargins he struck to get power have caught up with him and the whole administration is stuffed with token appointments who do nothing but weigh down the state wage bill. Also DR is very close to missing payments on its electricity bill, which will harm its position financially, really hurting confidence in the country investment wise), the food was good and the wine was nothing short of sublime. Which brings things nicely up to date. Hasta Luego!
*We had 6 people in a luxurious, spacious truck. Way up in the hills I saw one pick up with 18 people sat inside, outside and on the vehicle!
#This is a slight lie. Some of the music chocies were just as torturous. The Roots were dismissed as 'just rap' after half a track whereas 'Odelay' by Beck (good album no question) which is pretty much a Hip Hop pastiche, got some big love. Plus I seemed to be the only one present who wasn't a massive Jamiroquai fan. These may seem like trivial concerns, hence their relegation to footnote status, but I take music far too seriously not to have been slightly offended:) Our host did also play some lovely Iranian music that soothed my soul somewhat.
Friday 10 October 2008
Notebook Scrap #2
Warm life,
Falling from the sky
Strangers offer shelter,
Knowledge and hope.
Isolated defied,
Perception realigned,
new friends bless,
This wanderer
And sell flowers as life flow
Falling from the sky
Strangers offer shelter,
Knowledge and hope.
Isolated defied,
Perception realigned,
new friends bless,
This wanderer
And sell flowers as life flow
Notebook Scrap #1
An alien
With no language but my own
And no scripture or melody can speak for me
Mental strength, disciplined mindfulness and right action
Will see me through to the other side
Exposed
Vulnerable
Naked
Free
Reassuring beams I transmit
Could never encapsulate the moment
For whilst they beam
That moment has passed
Evaporated like so many others
A novice, a beginner
I can't concentrate
Manage my own being to meditate
Presently this bothers me
But 'Me' and 'The Present' are both
Snowballs hurled in the dragon's breath
With no language but my own
And no scripture or melody can speak for me
Mental strength, disciplined mindfulness and right action
Will see me through to the other side
Exposed
Vulnerable
Naked
Free
Reassuring beams I transmit
Could never encapsulate the moment
For whilst they beam
That moment has passed
Evaporated like so many others
A novice, a beginner
I can't concentrate
Manage my own being to meditate
Presently this bothers me
But 'Me' and 'The Present' are both
Snowballs hurled in the dragon's breath
Friday 3 October 2008
Week 2: Clear Blue Skies, Letchings and Lodgings
Upon arrival in DR I was itching to get to the sea. So straight after work on my first friday some of us took a taxi over to catch the last bus to Las Terreanas, a mostly French area on a northern peninsula of the island. However we missed the bus, then one of our number was almost mugged for her bag. After we pushed the guy away he attempted to high 5 me, and I must admit I was so stunned I almost reciprocated by reflex. How random is that? It was like he was trying to laugh off a bag snatching as some form of misunderstood horseplay. Anwyay after waiting by the (painfully out of place) 'China Town', which seems to be even less impressive than the London version, our taxi back to the other interns apartment eventually showed. Various interns and staff are spread acroos two nice aprtmetns ont he edge of La Zona Colonial (the Tourist and Nightlife Centre of Santo Domingo) We had take out Sushi , someof which was fried, which in my understanding would invalidate it as sushi, but it tasted good, particularly the ones with Plaintain (a characteristically Caribbean addiition), that and plenty of Brugal, along with choice selections from my CD collection (Roots Manuva, Buju Banton, Massive Attack) on the balcony made for a nice way to kill time before going back to catch the 8AM coach out of town.
A four hour journey* over a new, faster (road) to Las Terranas was made more than worthwhile in the first instance by the stunning views from the edge of the potentially treacherous mountain road out across miles of green countryside and coastline. with the sun reflecting off the sea int he distance, and then by the real thing; the bluest sea I have ever been priveleged to witness. I was itching to jump in and every moment seemed tortously extended as we found a 'Casa' (a cheap motel style accomodation which is basically a block of really well appointed chalets, in this case about 50 yards from the beach, with sea views) and ambled our way collectively to the beach (3 of us, one joined later and the remainder had gone to a more expensive resort at 'La Playa Bonita' down the coast). There I really felt like I was in the Caribbean, wading and swimming in the temperate waters, dozing in the sunshine and enjoying the cheap seafood. Also becasue more people spoke French and in particular there were a few Haitian guys who coul dspeak pretty decent English too, it was a bit easier to communciate. It seems quite weird travelling across this whole country of latino people in small settlements by the side of the road with a few shops and houses, to this bustling resort consisting mainly of French settlers, but that's history for you I guess.
In the early evening we made our way over to the others' hotel for dinner by MotoConcho: a motor bike taxi which is dirt cheap and, in this instance, bereft of even the most rudimentary suspension. We flew (2 passengers to a bike) over the 20 minute journey through barely lit country back roads to their palatial abode, where we enjoyed more great food. Including (unethical as it is) relaly fantastic Tuna Tartar. Then we made our way back to Los Terranas and the evening took a turn for the worse.It was pretty unsettling not being able to move for Old white dudes leching after young Dominican women selling sex. That was scratching the surface of the sleaze going on. Suffice to say I've had nicer evenings. The club we ended up at did have great potential though, basically a dancefloor with an open terrace at the back leading out to another wooden dance floor literally on the beach, a couple of feet from the moonlit Carribean. The follwoign afternoon we had to wave our lovely little casa goodbye and I barely had time to enjoy the sea one more time then buy a painting from one of the Haitian# merchants before it was time to jump on the bus again (the evening prior I had made a fool of myself browsing original works in one of the small galleries that are dotted aroudn the area and attempting to buy a fantastic painting for 250 pesos that was actually going for 250 US Dollars. maybe next lifetime :)) back to bustling Santo Domingo. On the way back it rained quite a lot but there was no storm. Boring eh?
The other main news is I have a proper place. A cheap little room with one of the agencies main landladies. She doesn't speak English so I really need to sort my Spanish out. It's OK as another Intern stays there too so I do have some company and the neighborhood seems well appointed. It's good to feel more settled, everything is unpacked now and I can walk to work. I've had a chance to see a bit more of the city too as we had a day off for Ramadan (cheers UN!). No pictures though. I will be sure to take a camera next time and capture some images of La Zona Colonial, which is markedly different in appearance to other neighbourhoods, dating back as much of it does to the Spanish ruled colonial period. I went with my new housemate to the oldest cathedral in the 'new world' (European Cultural Genocide started here folks!). This is still used today and is a pretty big deal given that 90% plus of the population is Catholic. the other highlights in the area are shops selling the Amber that the island is so rich in and little Cigar factories/shops/slash musems. A lot of stuff was clsoed as it was late in the day so the area will cetianly merit a return visit. I'm hoping to go to the Botancial Gardens this weekend too, which are a bit of a national treasure by all accounts. Anyway that's me for now. More pictures next time I promise.
Peace
*This sentence doesn't really do the journey justive. No A/C? Check!. Crazily overloaded bus with lugagge in aisle? Check! Extra makeshift seats shoved across aisle for extra passengers? Check. Payment passed to front hand to hand? Check. Random guys jumping on at toll booths in the middle of nowhere to try and sell what appeared to be crackers? Of course :0 The coaches have it all. But for 280 Pesos (about 7 quid) to travel half way across the country you can't really knock it.
#I'm using the words Dominican and Haitian to msotly distinguish between how people identify themselves. Most people are mixed race and as I understand it there is lots of migration and are lots of interrelations and family connections cross border but it does seem evident that darker skinned people, many of whom are Haitain immigrants, don't seem to have an equal status socially here. They are not visible in the richer neighbourhoods or amongst the university students. The guys in Las Terranas had thick Haitian accents and seemed to be merchants who travelled down to sell their work.
A four hour journey* over a new, faster (road) to Las Terranas was made more than worthwhile in the first instance by the stunning views from the edge of the potentially treacherous mountain road out across miles of green countryside and coastline. with the sun reflecting off the sea int he distance, and then by the real thing; the bluest sea I have ever been priveleged to witness. I was itching to jump in and every moment seemed tortously extended as we found a 'Casa' (a cheap motel style accomodation which is basically a block of really well appointed chalets, in this case about 50 yards from the beach, with sea views) and ambled our way collectively to the beach (3 of us, one joined later and the remainder had gone to a more expensive resort at 'La Playa Bonita' down the coast). There I really felt like I was in the Caribbean, wading and swimming in the temperate waters, dozing in the sunshine and enjoying the cheap seafood. Also becasue more people spoke French and in particular there were a few Haitian guys who coul dspeak pretty decent English too, it was a bit easier to communciate. It seems quite weird travelling across this whole country of latino people in small settlements by the side of the road with a few shops and houses, to this bustling resort consisting mainly of French settlers, but that's history for you I guess.
In the early evening we made our way over to the others' hotel for dinner by MotoConcho: a motor bike taxi which is dirt cheap and, in this instance, bereft of even the most rudimentary suspension. We flew (2 passengers to a bike) over the 20 minute journey through barely lit country back roads to their palatial abode, where we enjoyed more great food. Including (unethical as it is) relaly fantastic Tuna Tartar. Then we made our way back to Los Terranas and the evening took a turn for the worse.It was pretty unsettling not being able to move for Old white dudes leching after young Dominican women selling sex. That was scratching the surface of the sleaze going on. Suffice to say I've had nicer evenings. The club we ended up at did have great potential though, basically a dancefloor with an open terrace at the back leading out to another wooden dance floor literally on the beach, a couple of feet from the moonlit Carribean. The follwoign afternoon we had to wave our lovely little casa goodbye and I barely had time to enjoy the sea one more time then buy a painting from one of the Haitian# merchants before it was time to jump on the bus again (the evening prior I had made a fool of myself browsing original works in one of the small galleries that are dotted aroudn the area and attempting to buy a fantastic painting for 250 pesos that was actually going for 250 US Dollars. maybe next lifetime :)) back to bustling Santo Domingo. On the way back it rained quite a lot but there was no storm. Boring eh?
The other main news is I have a proper place. A cheap little room with one of the agencies main landladies. She doesn't speak English so I really need to sort my Spanish out. It's OK as another Intern stays there too so I do have some company and the neighborhood seems well appointed. It's good to feel more settled, everything is unpacked now and I can walk to work. I've had a chance to see a bit more of the city too as we had a day off for Ramadan (cheers UN!). No pictures though. I will be sure to take a camera next time and capture some images of La Zona Colonial, which is markedly different in appearance to other neighbourhoods, dating back as much of it does to the Spanish ruled colonial period. I went with my new housemate to the oldest cathedral in the 'new world' (European Cultural Genocide started here folks!). This is still used today and is a pretty big deal given that 90% plus of the population is Catholic. the other highlights in the area are shops selling the Amber that the island is so rich in and little Cigar factories/shops/slash musems. A lot of stuff was clsoed as it was late in the day so the area will cetianly merit a return visit. I'm hoping to go to the Botancial Gardens this weekend too, which are a bit of a national treasure by all accounts. Anyway that's me for now. More pictures next time I promise.
Peace
*This sentence doesn't really do the journey justive. No A/C? Check!. Crazily overloaded bus with lugagge in aisle? Check! Extra makeshift seats shoved across aisle for extra passengers? Check. Payment passed to front hand to hand? Check. Random guys jumping on at toll booths in the middle of nowhere to try and sell what appeared to be crackers? Of course :0 The coaches have it all. But for 280 Pesos (about 7 quid) to travel half way across the country you can't really knock it.
#I'm using the words Dominican and Haitian to msotly distinguish between how people identify themselves. Most people are mixed race and as I understand it there is lots of migration and are lots of interrelations and family connections cross border but it does seem evident that darker skinned people, many of whom are Haitain immigrants, don't seem to have an equal status socially here. They are not visible in the richer neighbourhoods or amongst the university students. The guys in Las Terranas had thick Haitian accents and seemed to be merchants who travelled down to sell their work.
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